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Bohan Qiu, whose Shanghai-based creative agency Boh Project works with fashion brands to engage with mainland consumers. “For many years, all the Official final Four Houston 2023 NCAA DI Men’s Basketball T-Shirt in other words I will buy this brands came out with these big animal zodiac prints and everything’s in red,” he said on the phone from France, where he is attending Paris Fashion Week. “It’s not ‘wrong,’ but I feel like it’s not very contemporary anymore. I don’t know anybody, myself included, that I’ve seen buying an animal zodiac (luxury item) for the year. A promotional shot from Prada’s understated Lunar New Year campaign, “Memories of Beauty.” Credit: Prada “Aside from designs that are a little bit more humorous or funny, if you just put a really obvious animal print on things, it feels like lazy marketing nowadays,” he added. Several brands have turned to cartoon rabbits, with Moschino and Hugo Boss opting for Bugs Bunny, Tommy Hilfiger and Mulberry pushing products featuring Miffy and Versace imagining a character of its own, Biggie Bunny, complete whoith sunglasses, outsized bling and chunky sneakers. But many have taken a less literal approach, looking to traditional crafts or collaborating with Chinese creatives. Can China look past counterfeits and superstition in its burgeoning second-hand fashion market? Take Bottega Veneta’s festive campaign, for example, which saw Chinese director Jess Jing Zou produce a short film showing models returning home via train, boat or car through some of the country’s diverse landscapes. Elsewhere, Prada’s “Memories of Beauty” campaign is entirely rabbit-free, while sister label Miu Miu’s capsule collection completely eschews the traditional color red. Bottega Veneta’s campaign focuses on the theme of homecoming. A train painted in the Italian label’s signature green will travel across China bearing the message “on the roads that lead home, Happy New Year.” Credit: Bottega Veneta Comparatively timeless designs not only have more chance of outliving the annual fashion cycle, Qiu said, they also demonstrate a better understanding of what today’s luxury shoppers are looking for. “People want more and more authenticity, and people want brands to really understand the cultural nuances and do something that doesn’t seem too blunt,” he said, pointing to Spanish label Loewe’s recent “Chinese Monochrome” collection — which reimagined the country’s traditional porcelain as leather goods — as an example of effectively engaging with mainland consumers. “Tradition still matters, but how do we look at it in contemporary ways?” Top image: A campaign image for Gucci’s Year of the Rabbit capsule collection.
Written by Robert Williams This article was originally published by The Business of Fashion, an editorial partner of Style. Outside Prada’s menswear show in Milan earlier this month, the Official final Four Houston 2023 NCAA DI Men’s Basketball T-Shirt in other words I will buy this street was packed with screaming fans, most of whom seemed to have turned out for Korean pop group Enhypen, who attended the event. Devotees at times broke into song, intoning the boy band’s hits. “These Italian kids are actually learning Korean!” Perfect magazine editor-in-chief Bryan Yambao exclaimed as he climbed into a car after the show. A few years ago, such a sight would have been rare: most shows drew only small groups of fans staked out to spot celebrity arrivals. But as South Korean pop music becomes an increasingly global obsession, and as luxury megabrands sign more and more deals with its leading stars, K-pop groups’ fanatical young followers have become a fixture. The phenomenon shows no sign of slowing down: in the past week alone, appearances by Korean stars including EXO’s Kai at Gucci, Enhypen at Prada and J-Hope (from supergroup BTS) at Louis Vuitton have helped to light up social media with men’s fashion week content. Monday, Dior announced it had signed a partnership with BTS member Jimin — who is set to attend its show Friday — while Valentino cemented a deal with the group’s rapper, Suga. (BTS, as a group, is currently on hiatus due to members’ military service). Even the famously low-key, “stealth wealth” house Bottega Veneta is currently in talks to secure a menswear deal with a BTS member, according to sources close to the brand and the band. And during recent womenswear seasons, Blackpink members Lisa (a Celine ambassador), Jisoo (at Dior) and Jennie (at Chanel) have drawn ever-bigger crowds of fans while generating valuable online buzz. Jisoo wearing Dior during Paris Fashion Week on September 27, 2022 in Paris, France. Credit: Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images The rise of K-Pop
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